Glycolic acid
Alpha Hydroxy Acids Help Refine and Brighten Your Skin
Alpha hydroxy Acids (AHA) help exfoliate the top layer of the epidermis which consists mainly of dead skin cells. This action speeds up the shedding of dead cells in older skin where the natural cellular turnover has slowed down. This clears and brightens the appearance of the skin while smoothing minor wrinkles and pigmentation.It’s great for oily skins because it helps to dry the oil from the surface, while not depleting the moisture content. Removal of the dead cells on the surface has a two way benefit. First it allows any creams and lotions to be absorbed better and it stimulates new cells to grow in the higher concentrations (any concentration lower than about 8% will not have any significant effect).
There is a myth that states AHAs can cause thinning of the skin, but this actually doesn’t happen because the skin replicates itself as fast as it is being sloughed off. In fact the opposite is true and skin appears thicker and less fragile looking.
Glycolic acid is the best known of the AHAs, some others being lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. All these are naturally occurring and derived from plants except lactic acid which comes from sour milk. The most commonly used in facial skin care are glycolic acid and to a lesser extent lactic acid. Glycolic acid has a small molecular structure which helps it to be absorbed by the skin deep into the epidermis.
Glycolic acid peel
The downside (yes there always is one!) is that AHAs can cause irritation and peeling of the skin especially at high concentrations. If this happens to you, try cutting down on their use to every two days or diluting with your normal moisturizer. Researchers have also expressed concern that the constant irritation caused by glycolic acid can cause the skin to produce free radicals which can damage the connective tissues.Common sense would probably prevail here! Don’t use AHAs continuously for long periods of time, when you have finished your glycolic acid product use a normal moisturizer or night cream for a while. The effects of the AHAs should last for some time, at least until the next application. Some say the irritation caused by AHAs can also make the skin particularly sensitive to UV rays, some say it doesn’t. In any case never go out during the day without a sunblock or sunscreen (I know I can get boring on this subject, but its soooo important!)
AHAs are also extremely useful in the treatment of acne as they unclog the pores clearing away stale sebum and bacteria which reduces blackhead and pimple formation. Start with a concentration of 10% and if that doesn’t cause any irritation, increase the strength gradually to receive the maximum benefits.
Mandelic acid is extracted from bitter almonds and is less irritating than the other AHAs. It also reduces hyper-pigmentation or lightening of the skin so it’s ideal for darker skins. It is probably not a good idea for dark or olive skins to use glycolic acid for this reason. Check with your dermatologist to be sure. Mandelic acid also has antibacterial action on the skin.
Don’t use glycolic acid on sensitive skins – It will burn and sting you may look red for days! Use the milder beta hydroxy acid instead.
Beta hydroxy acids are less irritating to the skin than alpha hydroxy acids. Salicylic acid is one of the better known BHAs. The molecules in these types of acids are larger than those found in glycolic acid hence they do not penetrate the skin as deeply. They are good for exfoliating the top layer of the epidermis.
